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Tale of a Cow

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Tale of a Cow

By Graeme Addison

Things happen for a reason, but when a dead cow floats into your life you have to wonder what that reason is.

It was enormously dead and not planning to drift away anytime soon. The brown swollen thing had got caught under a tree upriver of Otters’ Haunt, our place on the Vaal River, and if I’d known then what I know now about managing dead cows I would have taken swift decisive action. A stick of dynamite would have done it. Exploded cow sinks (doesn’t it?) but stinking cow in one piece is an embarrassment to the district.

The pong was everywhere. This happened late in the afternoon of New Year’s Eve 2005. Our riverside guest house and bush camp were full of visitors; champagne on ice; wives and kids sunning themselves next to the water, and intrepid fly-fishermen setting out to pursue the wily yellowfish in every nook and cranium, as one of them informed me.

“Ay!” yelled one of these rough and ready guys as I followed my nose towards the source. “You’s gotta sort that out, man. It honks something terrible!” His laugh was like a donkey’s bray.

This is what eco-living means. You have a dream that you will leave the city and set up an elegant establishment in the wilds, attracting the best sort of people for weekends communing with nature. They are soulmates rather than customers. Since coming to live on the Vaal four years previously, all the charms of country living had left their mark on us – fire, flood, pet dogs stuck full porcupine needles, cobras under the bookshelves. Bachelor parties in the raw, where young gallants smashed up the billiard table and burnt the furniture because the firewood pile was too far away.

Next morning they obligingly paid for the pleasure, punching me playfully. As an old riverman I recognised these fellows as Best of Type, my sort really – except that age and the necessity of making a decent living had forced me to go respectable.

For all these reasons I never ceased singing the praises of the rustic life on the Vaal.

Suicidal cows were part of this scenario. At first no-one knew where the cow hid, or rather bobbed on the current, but a quick paddle upriver soon revealed the 2006 New Year Horror. There it was, a cow from hell. Peering at the snagged carcass from a safe distance, I considered the options. Throw a grappling iron and tow it away upriver. Or drag it up the banks and bury it. Trouble was it might just break loose and head directly for our place, where a line of rocks and a low weir would definitely hold it back, placing the evil right under our noses. Call the Parys Fire Brigade? – you had to be joking, this was one evening in the year they would not be available to deal with agricultural mishaps. Drunks, accidents and runaway bar fires were their business tonight.

That is, if they operated at all. This was a small town, and this was South Africa in the festive season. Everyone would be on a jorl – even emergency workers.

All this went through my mind as another part of me pondered the scientific and historical interest of the moment. Inflated animal skins made the first blow-up rafts, a technology still used on Himalayan rivers today. Probably the first rapids were run when a drowning man hung onto a bloated bovine in a flood. Better than nothing at all. From that, someone had the bright idea of refining the technology by removing the innards and sewing the thing up to make it waterproof. That’s progress.

But I didn’t need this sort of progress on New Year’s Eve, and we had enough inflatables of our own.

For an instant I believed the cow would hear my prayer and quietly sink out of sight. Not. Instead, it dislodged itself and spun lazily into the current, going with the flow like a missile aimed directly at our business. No-one at our place seemed to appreciate the gravity of the situation. They were all getting ready for the night’s merriment. But in the hospitality game you have to provide a safe, stink-free environment. There had to be action!

I conferred with our expert on land and water affairs, Ricky Mudau, handyman, gardener and riverguide. Ricky had his own views on life’s challenges because, as a Pedi living in a predominantly Tswana area, he knew about solving problems in isolation.

We decided to harpoon the animal and sink it. A weapon was soon fashioned from a sharpened iron rod wired to a long thin gum pole. We headed out like Captain Ahab and Quee-Queg in an inflatable raft-cum-whaleboat, me standing with the harpoon raised high at the bows. Our grins as we passed a bunch of fishermen on the wooden deck at the river were actually grimaces.

By the time we reached the cow it was stuck fast on a rock; settling in for the night. It was beginning to get dark and the slimy hide of the animal glinted purple and gold in the falling sun. As we closed in I realised the glossy colours were really big fat blueflies collected around the eyes, ears, mouth and anus and humming like bees on a hunt for honey.

I prepared to lunge forward with the harpoon but the stench was so overpowering that lunge I did – to retch in the water. Recovering my pride, I jabbed the pole at the most rotund part of the cow, expecting it to sink into a soft, jelly-like substance and hear a whoosh of escaping gas. Nothing happened. The spike bounced off as if the hide were armour plating.

I lunged again, still nothing. Except that the blueflies burst around us in a violent swarm that had us ducking and waving. Damn it, there would be no surrender. Ricky and I changed places: he had too a couple of goes, but no way, this cow was tougher than it looked and built to last. The tip of the iron rod was bent over and had become as blunt as an old boot. We backed off, leaving the blueflies to their prize, and made for the workshop to grind a carefully selected steel spoke down to a point that would pierce the enemy’s thickest armour. There was an insane glint in Ricky’s eye as the sparks flew.

I took this opportunity to phone the Parys Fire Brigade. Against my finer instincts, it was time to seek help from the authorities.

“Yaaaw,” drawled the duty officer, “what’s problem?”

“We have a dead cow in the river. Can you come and take it away?”

“Mister,” said the voice, “how is we suppose to do that?”

“Well, I don’t know haven’t you had dead cows before?”

“Is not our problem. The owner must come fetch it.”

“But who the hell knows who the owner is?” It crossed my mind that he was expecting me to ask the cow. “Surely you can winch it out of the river? I mean, the public are using the Vaal for swimming and fishing. It’ll bring disease. This is an emergency!” 

“No man, we can’t come now, this is a bad night and half our peoples is on leaf.”

Had I stopped there, the cow would have disappeared off the official radar screen forever. Water – the softest, most powerful force in the world – does its work on reeking bodies, taking them off to oblivion. But impatience would be my downfall.

“Let me speak to the Fire Chief,” I demanded, “This thing can’t stay here!” At the top of the bureaucratic tree  must be someone who understood the public health and tourism issues surrounding the incident. I would be heard.

“Ag wait.”

An African lady came on line. “Father, can I help you? What is the difficulty?”

The whole crisis was explained again, and again, and again, as I climbed the official ladder, each time growing more insistent, more desperate, putting the case for Public Responsibility and Pollution Control. Eventually it turned out that the top man in the department was away in Namaqualand and nobody else would take the decision to call up people on New Year’s Eve just to rid one river lodge owner of a smelly problem.

We went back on the river. Now thunder and lightning crashed on the eastern horizon as the last of the sun sank in the west. When rain comes from the east it’s cyclonic and likely to be heavy. The river had a well-oiled look in the flashing gloom, as if it were flexing its muscles to usher the New Year in, but the cow was as solidly wedged on the rocks as ever and nothing would budge it. This time, the harpoon really worked and the cow was soon punctured all over like an oozing teabag.

Delightful. The stink got worse and the cow simply snugged itself down more firmly on its rocks.

Back to the phone.

“Listen,” I yelled at the same polite, patient African lady, “people can’t celebrate if they get sick! This thing has got to go! Send in the emergency team! Please.”

There was a pulse of resentment on the other end but I was past caring.

“OK, sir, we’ll be in touch.” Click.

By now the mother and father of all thunderstorms was raging in the east. The tall bluegums on the islands opposite our place shuddered and shed their leaves. The rain pelted horizontally across the open field beside the bush camp where guests huddled in miserable groups under the thatched lapa. The lights went out as the power failed. The only consolation was that the smell was blown away, for the time being, but it would return. This was building up to a New Year’s Eve of note.

Then the phone rang. A distant, crackly voice pronounced my name and added its own – this was the Fire Chief calling from a homely braai in the middle of the great arid wastelands somewhere between Pofadder and Pampoensvlei. There was no storm there, no river bringing the reek of putrefaction, just a celebration where the dead cow provoked raucous mirth in the background.

“My frien’,” said the Chief slightly slurring his words, “Ja well! They’s coming to sorts out jou probleem.”

This was the first official acknowledgement that I really did have a situation on my hands. Here was the pro taking charge, managing the disaster as we had a right to expect. I couldn’t express my gratitude enough. I offered to put up the Chief and his family for a week. Told him the whole district would thank him for saving us from pestilence. It amounted to heroism of the highest order.

He yawned. “What’s that blerry geraas (noise) you got there?”

“Just a bit of rain,” I shouted as the lighting struck metres away and the phone went dead.

Somehow the Auld Lang Syne parties went ahead, everyone fell about in the slush, and by midnight the skies were clearing to allow a man-made storm of fireworks, as impressive as the real thing if you half-closed your eyes. Then a miraculous calm descended, and with it the returned the puking smell in my nostrils. Nightmares of giant blueflies invaded my sleep while a rotting carcass the size of Moby Dick washed up on the doorstep.

At the first chink of dawn I was back at the wooden deck peering into the mist on the river to make out – Oh Gawd, there it was still – the hump of the cow. I wandered home hoping the Chief would make good his promise, soon. By the time our guests woke up with sore heads the cow must be ancient history. It must be disappeared. Pong gone.

Meantime, citizen help was on the way. Hugh and Clive, paddling friends from town, drove in and bounced up to me with the offer to remove my cow. They seemed perversely eager to manhandle the carcass like abattoir workers – their way of kicking off the year.

“We’ll get rid of your cow!” they chirped.

With friends like these, who needs health and emergency services?

But…My cow, who said it was my cow? Suddenly I was the owner of this abomination. Everyone in town thought the cow was my project to mark 2006. No, a hundred times no! I was the victim, not the perpetrator.

The cow had been the talk of a party last night at Hugh’s place when Karen, my wife and business partner, went to out pop champagne. I I just went to bed, nursing cow angst.

I directed my friends to the deck and told them it was over to them. I could do no more.

Just then, with a rumble of vehicles and a clanking of chains, the Fire Brigade arrived in force. Red Land Rovers, big winch, workers in overalls with lifejackets. Poles and hooks and ropes.

There were hungover expressions all around and it was sad that most had not been to bed, or just briefly so, before being rousted out to deal with the Chief’s priority assignment. My attempts to crack a few pathetic jokes about mad cow disease and feeling cowed by the New Year didn’t go down well. They even rejected the offer of strong coffee.

“Let’s get on with it,” said the team leader, Hannes, moodily. Funny, he was normally quite buoyant when he came to Otters’ Haunt to fight veld fires. He enjoyed it if lives and property were threatened, if flames ten metres high threatened to consume us all. A dead cow didn’t have quite the same appeal.

We crossed to the deck lookout to study he problem. Hugh and Clive were just leaving – they shrugged and shook their heads, which I took to be an admission that they too couldn’t do anything much. Anyway the professionals were here now.

The mist had lifted.

“So where it is?” said Hannes.

“There, on that rock over there.” I pointed at yesterday’s bluefly paradise.

He squinted into the rising sun. “That’s not a cow, that’s a rock,” he shot me a puzzled glance.

“No it is, you can smell it,” I insisted. I didn’t want to take another whiff myself but I urged him: “Smell it!”

“I can’t smell anything,” he said flatly.

I took another look at the rock. It wasn’t the same, it seemed much smaller than yesterday, so I searched the river for the whole band of rocks that we knew so well from picking our way through them in boats. They were all underwater. The willows lining the banks now had their tendrils trailing in strong currents. I rubbed my eyes. Hannes watched me like a man contemplating a fight in a pub but uncertain whether to start it or walk away. The other men gathered round.

“I could have sworn there were rocks here yesterday,” I mumbled.

“Eish!” breathed one of the workers, “die baas is versuip!” (the boss is pissed). There was a ripple of angry agreement.

“No, seriously, honestly,” I pleaded with Hannes, “the cow was struck right there. It smelt terrible. It was a health hazard…” I trailed off. “The river must have risen in the night.” I paused and searched again, one last time. “It’s gone.”

“I guess so, meneer,” Hannes looked me dead in the eye. “You know, we came specially early for this.”

“Uh,” smiling weakly at the whole group I made an empty, apologetic gesture. Disgusted, they turned and strode back to their vehicles, revved up, and roared away, leaving me standing there without the ghost of an excuse. The Parys Fire Brigade won’t be back here again in a hurry.

It was all my fault – the cow, the phonecalls, the storm, the hangovers, the missing carcass, everything. What a bummer.

After a minute I took a deep breath of the fresh New Year and tried to shake the feeling of being a complete idiot.

Things happen for a reason. After the Day of the Dead Cow it rained non-stop for weeks and months. The beast was a messenger from the weather gods. The river surged, threatening to drive us from house, home and offices. But just like the cow, it never quite brought disaster, and quietly subsided.

There is a deeper reason too. Somewhere in the universe is an Office of Practical Jokes where they plan incidents like this. If the carcass had remained stuck on its rock, the Fire Brigade would never have come. It had to float away so that the emergency team would come. Get it? Whom the gods wish to humble, they first make foolishly angry. This is the Law of the Dead Cow. 

 

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The whole crisis was explained again, and again, and again, as I climbed the official ladder, each time growing more insistent, more desperate, putting the case for Public Responsibility and Pollution Control.


Website by Editorial Assignments, Vaal Cybercentre. Copyright, 2005. All rights reserved.